Now a cynical Adult i see it as the best prop ever ,Details abound from 3 step roof to steps above the doors to the quadrants on the posts etc , colours (Even when almost black with filth) , shape size geometry ,being GRP Fiberglass so easy to transport , its look in general and profile its the business s far as a TARDIS in the guise of a Police Box go's
so you can guess i wanted /want one
then here comes CO and half attempt then i got stuck in
I went for less TARDIS on TV and more prop so even did the S18 19 back doors also seen in ghost light
She is generic based on look of S18/19 & S25 /26 overall look of the TARDIS as this is basically what she did look like with moments in between of extreme dirt or overly bright flat finishes so with a decade of looks i chose something just TARDIS with the flat small lamp
construction and begining
so now my kit has been take apart and i have added details like the top of the wall devide going above the sign boxes and now added a new lamp and shorter base for the lamp and shorter base for the box
Next i added detail to simulate 22o angle on the panels and windows and sanded all moulded texture off
I also then took to the lintels (Police box signs) and extended them the correct length after measuring and marking them out adding some plasticard to the length for support and backing and then this was filled in and using tools for detail shaped the frame
i then liberally covered it in model filler like squadron putty and with a technique i leaned added thinners to allow it to run sooth and into cracks this was sanded several times then all imperfections dealt with until end result was a flat smooth grp (fiberglass) looking box
i base coat with Halfords grey primer ,sanded it and resprayed several times with windows and phone panel masked off (i wanted to retain current sign as was manufactured and was relatively accurate for the box i was doing also liked the look of it )
preshadeing
pre-shade the entire box in black. Generally, I would apply my base paint right to plastic. However, this step is a means of making the tone of the surface colour uniform all-over. I used Tamiya Black TS14 out of an aerosol can. It is important to paint lightly and make certain to reach all of the little nooks and crannies. Let it dry and repeat with another light coat of same and essentially, you are left with a kit which has been completely obliterated with thin layers of black paint and not one bit of the grey primer is showing through.
Once this had completely dried, I painted in Dulux wild water thinned down with water and done with a almost dry brush each layer was applied lightly, once the previous coat had dried.
This essentially produces a definitive blue colour on flat surfaces whilst leaving corners and shadows with an almost black dark blue tone.
This is the result of less base paint reaching those hard to get areas, and is a very desirable effect. Hence, the pre-shade of black paint with blue applied, on top, in light coats created a visual tonal contrast between highlights and shadows. When this was completely dry, I turned my attention to 'filter' techniques described in several Military Modelling articles.
I covered select areas in thinners (testors) to break the surface tension and then set about painting it (very diluted in thinners.) Humbrol enamel matt blue 26 making sure to evenly cover the entire kit. Once the filter had dried, it left a nice overall darker tone to the surface ready for weathering
Pin Wash
After dry brushing entire model in my chosen shade of wild water prussian blue and white i decided to start to pin wash the lighter Tardis colour
It's another thing i read on various military and scale modelling web sites and forums this addressed a issue i had of not wanting to spoil my kit by drowning it n a wet wash all over but get the shadows and dirt in there that i wanted
It's another thing i read on various military and scale modelling web sites and forums this addressed a issue i had of not wanting to spoil my kit by drowning it n a wet wash all over but get the shadows and dirt in there that i wanted
essentially a games workshop acrylic black and flat earth brown mixed and thinned with water restricting this to all of the nooks and crannies and seam lines with an '00' brush.
The kit was beginning to take on a nice weathered look. In fact, the filter combined with the pin wash greatly enhanced the look of the finish and dry brush on top finished it off nicely
The kit was beginning to take on a nice weathered look. In fact, the filter combined with the pin wash greatly enhanced the look of the finish and dry brush on top finished it off nicely
I then took my acrylic art paint set in tubes and I re-applied yet another pin wash around some of the locks handles and bolts with Burnt Sienna mixed with water to further accentuate the details
I let this dry for about two days in a dust-free box for a few days as it was very wet that cold feel thats damp and takes ages to dry
and then did nothing for longer than i planned and xmas came went and got on with life and now im back at the kit again
and researching again (see never stops) and came across on the modelling forums a man gos by the name of scale model medic and a video on you tube and watched his techniques and one really struck me
Buff Dust Treatment
I now decided to turn my attention to creating a dusty look on the Box from being in those dark dusty corners of prop storage, and left in dusty locations and warehouses/ deserts fields /quarys/road sides etc .
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